Flying in, I watched the sunrise light up the Himalayas, the peaks piercing through a sea of clouds. Capturing a decent photo was nearly impossible. My trekking partner Jeffrey happened to be on the same flight—but I only realized it after landing. Kathmandu’s airport was small and dimly lit. Since my visa was already arranged, customs went smoothly. Outside, our trekking agent Ram greeted us.
If you're new to traveling outside the U.S., Kathmandu hits you with a sensory overload: the distinct taste of the air, constant city noise (especially honking), and a barrage of persistent street vendors offering their services—six polite "no’s" often won’t deter them. Cab rides through the narrow streets, where vehicles drive on the left, seem chaotic. Cars, buses, rickshaws, ox carts, bicycles, motorcycles, mopeds, pedestrians, and stray cows all appear to move in different directions.
Stop signs and signal lights are almost nonexistent. Drivers simply honk at intersections until a path clears. Surprisingly, I found riding through the city thrilling. Ram later treated me to a motorcycle ride (Mom, please don’t see this). Soon after, Ram, Jeff, and I finalized our trekking plans and Ram introduced us to our guide, Chin. Chin guided us to a shop for last-minute gear before setting us free to explore the city.
Jeff, having visited Kathmandu before, navigated us to the main attractions: Durbar Square, Swayambhunath (the Monkey Temple), Pashupatinath (the temple of Shiva), and Boudhanath. We ended the day with an authentic Nepalese dinner prepared by Chin, complete with traditional local dance entertainment.
Nepal Trek Day 05: Namche Bazaar → Tengboche (3,885 m / 12,738 ft)
Date: May 12, 2014
Between 5–7 a.m. offered the best mountain views. I often stayed up late, hoping to see a starry sky—but clouds always obscured the view.
Determined not to repeat my previous day’s digestive woes, I stuck to boiled potatoes, rice, and porridge. I also packed more medication—just in case. By 8 a.m., we were on the trail to Tengboche.
Initially, the path ascends out of Namche, then levels out. After crossing a river, it climbs again. Our porter Lakpa quietly impressed us—carrying our supplies with ease and always arriving first at each stop. He was also a great card-player.
As we passed the Tengboche stupa, I spotted the bridge we’d crossed two days prior far below. We paused for lunch and laughed about Bryan Adams. Meals at every stop were enormous—more than I could eat. Higher up, rhododendrons—scattered scarlet blooms—dotted the landscape.
We reached Tengboche in the afternoon and stayed at Hotel Himalayan. Wi-Fi cost $5 and hot showers were $4. I had a slice of dry chocolate cake at a nearby bakery. Dust was everywhere, so I wore a scarf over my mouth while hiking. Though the sun was bright, it felt cold and confusing—but hiking kept me warm. I hadn’t experienced altitude sickness yet, though others were beginning to.
Tengboche is sparsely populated—monks and tea house owners being the only residents. Nights were quiet; at 5 p.m., stove fires in the dining area warmed the room—burning rhododendron wood. I found myself bundled up near the stove, gazing at the mountains. The tea house exteriors were stone—beautifully hand-chiseled. Interiors had plywood-lined rooms—some with exposed wiring. I’d once accidentally electrocuted myself in Phakding.
Ram had given Chin a bag of apples and pomegranates in Kathmandu. Each night, Chin served Jeffrey and me a plate of fresh fruit—a luxury that made other trekkers a bit jealous. After dinner, Everest and Nuptse presented a spectacular view. Patrons gathered near the stove, offered steaming towels, and swapped stories.
An older French woman recounted her trip from 34 years earlier, when she didn’t have a guide or porter. A German couple from Munich practiced English with me while discussing their trek to Island Peak—they had turned back early due to altitude sickness. Increasingly, I heard others shortening treks.
Lights went out early, making the room cozier than the night before—though colder overall.
Nepal Trek Days 10–13: Trekking to Kala Pattar, Detour via Periche & Return
Day 10: I woke in Gorak Shep feeling sleep-deprived—likely due to altitude. Surprisingly, it wasn't as cold as expected, and my water hadn’t frozen overnight. Breathing had been difficult; my mouth felt dry and my lips chapped, even with constant chapstick.
We were scheduled to climb Kala Pattar (approx. 5,500 m), but none of us felt well enough. Instead, we ate breakfast and began descending toward Tengboche via Periche. This new route offered stunning views of Ama Dablam.
Periche was about 16 km from Gorak Shep (with many bathroom breaks) and nearly 1,000 m lower. We stopped for lunch at 11 a.m., encountering trekkers descending from Everest Base Camp. Climbing up took around 9–10 days, while descending only took 2–3. Low-hanging clouds veiled the rhododendron forest in mystery.
I had a persistent sore throat—I was probably coming down with a cold. My lips and tongue felt numb for the last few days, but I hoped that would pass.
Day 11: Tengboche to Namche Bazaar—a 4-hour hike (mixed downhill, uphill, and flat). My feet ached for the second time this trip. Namche offered respite: a hot shower and cheesecake.
Day 12: Namche to Lukla. I ate a chocolate pancake and watched Bollywood on TV in Phakding—a rare glimpse of media. We reached Lukla at 2:45 p.m. No hot water or internet, but Bollywood films were playing. I visited a fake Starbucks, had cake and a Snickers; sugar overload hit me fast. That evening, Lukla resembled a mini Spring Break party—just colder.
Day 13: Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. My jacket doubled as a farewell gift to Lakpa. Our flight was delayed 2.5 hours due to low clouds—common in Lukla’s notoriously unpredictable weather. Many trekkers were stranded that day.
Once back in Kathmandu, we reunited with Ram at Nepal Spirit Adventure and filled him in on our journey. I wholeheartedly recommend him if you’re trekking in Nepal.
Nepal Days 13–17: Cultural Immersion and Chitwan Safari
Day 14: I got a cab from Thamel to Bhaktapur for NPR 2,000 (~$20). We briefly stopped near the Parliament and Supreme Court. Bhaktapur—a beautiful Newari town—was full of overly enthusiastic local guides.
On the return, my driver, Suresh, drove off briefly down a dusty highway—my mind raced with absurd fears. He returned with a 2-liter bottle of black-market petrol, explaining the fuel shortage. That evening, Ram treated Jeff and me to dinner. I ordered a filet mignon—and they brought two. In a deeply Hindu country, that steak tasted divine.
Day 15: I waved goodbye to Jeff heading to Pokhara, then wandered the labyrinthine streets of Thamel. It’s easy to get lost there; signs are rare and shops look alike. By 8:30 a.m., half the town usually stayed in sleep mode. I visited Narayanhity Palace (no photos allowed—so look it up online). For lunch, I met Ram at the Garden of Dreams, a beautifully restored Neo-classical garden. They served paninis—a tranquil escape from the surrounding chaos.
After breakfast the next morning, Ram rode me through Kathmandu’s traffic to catch a bus to Chitwan National Park, where I stayed three days via his company. On the bus, I met Baba from ‘Baba Travels and Tours.’ Outside the city, the route was lush and lined with tinsel-adorned semi-trucks and loud horns. A mixture of modern apartments and thatched structures marked the landscape transition.
Chitwan adventures:
- Arrived at Hotel Rainforest in offseason—luxurious and solitary. A wild elephant stayed just 50 feet from my room.
- Dinner featured a fruit called “Jubran”—crispy with a citrus note—and a sunset walk along the river to spot buffalo, crocodiles, kingfishers, and a bathing rhino. That night, local dancers performed in near-darkness, with audience lights providing illumination.
Day 16: I shared an elephant ride with a Korean traveler and German couple. Wildlife sightings included wild boars, deer, monkeys, and rhinos. Elephant bathing time involved them spraying water—in one case, knocking me off! A serene canoe ride followed, spotting gators and birds. Later, Krishna led a jungle hike—noise-filled but animal sightings were scarce. We came close to a wild elephant tearing branches, so we kept a respectful distance.
Day 17: I woke early for bird-watching—Krishna pointed out psychedelic mushrooms growing in elephant dung. We found rhino tracks on a busy trail. Birds and crocodiles were plentiful. On the bus ride back to Kathmandu, the driver raced along narrow cliffside roads—seeing a crushed bus below made me avert my gaze.
Back in Kathmandu, Ram invited me to his home for dinner. I met his wife, mother-in-law, and two sons. His boys proudly showed me schoolwork while momos were prepared. My attempts were (hilariously) rejected, so I happily chopped vegetables. The final momos were exquisite—instantly my favorite food.
Thank you, Ram, for your exceptional service throughout this trek. An unforgettable journey to Everest Base Camp—highly recommended via Nepal Spirit Adventure!
— Mr. Jeremy Smith
Kalamazoo, USA
jeremythewicked1@gmail.com
